72 Hours in Bologna: Eating Your Way Through Italy’s Food Capital

After exploring the canals of Venice, the Italian adventure continued in Bologna, the red-hued capital of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. Known for its medieval charm and home to the world’s oldest university founded in 1088, it’s also the birthplace of ragù alla Bolognese and home to some of the best food in the country. Often flying under the radar compared to Rome or Florence, Bologna remains still less crowded by tourists. In addition, its walkability and authenticity make it a true haven for foodies with a side of history.

Day I

Check into Hotel Porta San Mamolo, a quiet and charming boutique hotel just a short walk from Piazza Maggiore. With cozy rooms, a leafy courtyard for breakfast, and genuine Bolognese hospitality, it’s the perfect home base for your stay.

Start your trip by diving straight into Bologna’s food culture. Drop your bags and head out for your first aperitivo and some people-watching under the city’s signature porticoes at Barlume, a stylish café-bar known for its quality coffee and laid-back aperitivo scene.

For dinner, make a reservation at Trattoria Meloncello, one of Bologna’s old-school institutions. It’s a bit outside the city center, but well worth the journey once you’ve tasted their tortellini in brodo or tagliatelle al ragù. Still have room for something sweet? Walk over to Cremeria Funivia, widely considered Bologna’s best gelateria, where they fill the bottom of your cone with melted chocolate. Both spots are conveniently located near the start of the scenic walk up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca – perfect for a pre- or post-dinner stroll.

Day II

Bologna is a city made for wandering, but also for eating. After breakfast at Forno Brisa, a modern bakery and coffee roastery, spend your morning strolling under the endless porticoes. Visit Piazza Maggiore, peek inside the grand Basilica di San Petronio, and if you’re feeling adventurous, climb the iconic Two Towers (Le Due Torri) for panoramic views of the city – all within walking distance of each other.

But as much as Bologna is a city of towers and churches, it’s equally a city of pasta and markets. After some sightseeing, sample the holy trinity of Bolognese cuisine – tortellinitortelloni, and lasagna – at one (or all) of the city’s favourites such as Pasta Fresca Naldi, Pasta Fresca Nonna Cesira or Voglia di Sfoglia. Later, explore Mercato delle Erbe, a lively indoor market for grocery shopping or grabbing quick bites with locals at one of the casual eateries inside.

As the sun sets, embrace a truly local tradition. Head to Osteria del Sole, Bologna’s oldest wine bar dating back to 1465, where you bring your own food and just order drinks. And since Bologna doesn’t sleep early, end the evening with a nightcap at Camera A Sud, a book-filled, artsy bar in the old Jewish quarter, or Velluto Botanique Eclectique, a vintage-style cocktail bar with herbal, seasonal specials.

Day III

Bologna is also a perfect base for day trips and to explore the flavors of the wider Emilia-Romagna region. On your last day, grab a quick espresso and pastry at Caffè Terzi Bologna, then catch an early train to Reggio Emilia for a day indulging into a culinary and cheesy experience in the countryside.

Book a Parmigiano Reggiano tour via Airbnb Experience, where a local host will guide you through the entire production process of this iconic cheese. You’ll start with a regional breakfast, explore the fascinating world of cheese-making, and finish with a tasting session featuring Parmigiano Reggiano, Lambrusco, and local prosciutto. If cheese isn’t your thing, you can also plan similar trips to Modena, the home of traditional balsamic vinegar, or Parma, a city that’s famous for its ham, prosciutto di Parma.

Back in Bologna, grab a quick piadina – Romagna’s signature flatbread sandwich – from La Tua Piadina sui Viali for a light dinner starter. Then, head out for one last culinary experience at Cantina Bentivoglio, where traditional dishes are served in a candlelit setting with live jazz music. And, of course, no farewell to Bologna would be complete without one last gelato, this time at Cremeria Mascarella, another local favorite with rich, creamy flavors.